Cross-border travel can feel intimidating until you take the first step. Years ago, I decided to give it a go, and it’s led to some of the most memorable experiences of my life. Travelling from South Africa to Victoria Falls without spending a fortune is entirely possible, and this guide will show you how.

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Getting There: The Bus Option

If you’re planning to visit both Lusaka and Livingstone, taking a bus from Johannesburg to Zambia is a practical and affordable choice. While I haven’t explored the Zimbabwean side, my experiences on the Zambian side have been consistently positive.

In Johannesburg, buses to Zambia and Malawi depart from the corner of Kerk and Nugget Street in the CBD. Royal Africa is a popular option, but on my most recent trip, I travelled with Jonda Bus Service, a Zambian-owned company. Their coaches are new, comfortable, and well-maintained, and the service is efficient. Each bus has two drivers and two hosts who manage border control, assist passengers, and handle necessary paperwork.

Travelling by bus is cost-effective, but it’s wise to prepare for potential delays. Breakdowns can happen, and you might end up waiting hours for repairs or a replacement bus. Always factor in extra time for such situations.

The journey takes around 36 hours, so pack snacks, bring something to keep you entertained, and wear comfortable clothes. If buses aren’t your thing, FlySafair offers direct flights to Livingstone and Victoria Falls twice a week at reasonable prices.

Update: I recently learned that some buses go straight to Livingstone, using the Botswana Kazungula Border. In this case you don’t need to make a stop in Lusaka. The bus will drop you in Livingstone.

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A Stop in Lusaka

Before heading to Livingstone, consider spending a day or two in Lusaka. The city offers a mix of markets, museums, and places to eat. The Kabwata Cultural Village is a good spot for traditional crafts, and the Sunday Craft Market is ideal for picking up locally made souvenirs. The Lusaka National Museum provides a look into Zambia’s history, which includes Zambia’s role in South Africa’s fight against apartheid. Entry costs R90 for tourists.

For history buffs, the Oliver Tambo Heritage House is a must-visit. This museum honours the life and legacy of Oliver Tambo, a key figure in South Africa’s liberation struggle, and highlights Zambia’s support during that time.

When it comes to food, don’t miss Mpoto Yathu, a restaurant in Lusaka that serves authentic African cuisine. It’s a great place to try local dishes in a relaxed and welcoming setting.

Lusaka’s nightlife is lively, even on weekdays. For affordable accommodation, I recommend Natwange Backpackers, which is close to East Park Mall and public transport.

Getting around Lusaka is straightforward. While there’s no Uber or Bolt, the Yango e-hailing service is reliable and affordable. Regular taxis are also an option, though they might charge more if they realise you’re a tourist.

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Livingstone: The Gateway to the Falls

From Lusaka, take a bus to Livingstone, a journey of approximately 470 kilometres. I’ve always used UBZ Bus Service, which offers a comfortable 7-hour ride on well-maintained roads.

Livingstone is the Zambian side’s access point to Victoria Falls and has plenty to offer. The Mukuni Curio Market is a great spot for handmade items and souvenirs. Vendors are friendly and open to negotiation, so don’t hesitate to haggle.

For food, try local dishes like Nshima, a staple similar to South Africa’s pap, often served with stews or fresh bream fish from the Zambezi River. Local drinks like Mosi Premium Lager are affordable, but imported options can be pricey.

Livingstone’s nightlife includes spots like Vix Falls and Limpos, popular venues for a night out. Vix Falls has Karaoke on Tuesdays while Limpo’s has live music as least 5 days a week. Stick to local drinks to save money, but be cautious with Mosi Premium Lager—it’s known for its strong after-effects. I have stories. Mosi is not for the faint-hearted.

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Where to Stay in Livingstone

For budget-friendly accommodation, consider backpackers’ lodges like Jolly Boys or Fawlty Towers. During off-peak times, you can find dormitory-style rooms for around R350 per night. Both places offer free Wi-Fi, self-catering facilities, and communal areas to meet other travellers.

Jolly Boys provides free transfers from the airport or bus station, as well as free rides to Victoria Falls. They have a restaurant on-site and a kitchen if you prefer to cook. The outdoor lounge and swimming pool are perfect for relaxing and socialising.

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Victoria Falls: The Main Event

The highlight of the trip is, of course, Victoria Falls. The falls straddle the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe, and each side offers different perspectives. While opinions vary on which side is better, I think the Zimbabwean side provides the most impressive viewpoints. That means if you stand on the Zimbabwean side facing the Zambian side, you’ll be at the best vantage point.

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SUNSET CRUISE ON THE MIGHTY ZAMBEZI

A sunset cruise on the Zambezi River is pure magic. As the boat drifts, you might see elephants drinking at the water’s edge, their presence softened by the golden light of the setting African sun. The sky ignites with shades of orange, pink, and purple, creating a scene so vivid it feels like a dream. It’s a quiet, breathtaking moment that stays with you long after the sun disappears. Long before you’ve left Zambia.

This journey has a deeply spiritual effect. Witnessing the falls is a life-changing experience, and I believe every African should visit Mosi-oa-Tunya, “The Smoke That Thunders,” at least once in their lifetime. It’s more than a destination, it’s a connection to the land, its history, and its power.